Popovers
Source: Cooks Illustrated, February 2004
Why this recipe works: We chose bread flour for its high protein content, which gave our Perfect Popovers the highest rise and crispest crust. Resting the batter for an hour before baking gave the proteins in the flour time to relax and prevented the popovers from setting up too quickly. We used low-fat milk instead of whole milk for a higher-rising, moist product. Heating the milk allowed the batter to come together with less mixing, which was key to avoiding an overworked batter and tough popovers.
We had the best results baking the popovers first at high heat to initiate the rise, then turning the oven down so the interiors would be done at the same time as the crust. To prevent the popovers from collapsing as they cooled, we poked a hole in the top of each one when they were almost done cooking, and then again as they cooled. This allowed the steam to escape and kept the crisp structure intact.
Greasing the pans with shortening ensures the best release, but vegetable oil spray may be substituted; do not use butter. To gauge the popovers’ progress without opening the oven door, use the oven light during baking. Bread flour makes for the highest and sturdiest popovers, but an equal amount of all-purpose flour may be substituted.
Vegetable shortening (see note)
3 large eggs
2 cups low-fat milk, heated to 110 degrees
3 T unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly
2 cups bread flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Grease 6-cup popover pan with vegetable shortening, then dust lightly with flour. Whisk eggs in medium bowl until light and foamy. Slowly whisk in milk melted butter until incorporated.
2. Combine flour, salt, and sugar in large bowl. Whisk three-quarters of milk mixture into flour mixture until no lumps remain, then whisk in remaining milk mixture. Transfer batter to large measuring cup, cover with plastic, and let rest at room temperature for 1 hour. (Alternatively, batter can be refrigerated for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before proceeding with recipe.)
3. Whisk batter to recombine, then pour into prepared popover pan (batter
will not quite reach top of cups). Bake until just beginning to brown, about 20 minutes. Without opening oven door, decrease oven temperature to 300 degrees and continue to bake until popovers are golden brown all over, 35 to 40 minutes longer. Poke small hole in top of each popover with skewer and continue to bake until deep golden brown, about 10 minutes longer. Transfer popover pan to wire rack. Poke again with skewer and let cool for 2 minutes. Turn popovers out onto wire rack. Serve.
Makes 6 large popovers
TO MAKE AHEAD: Once popovers have cooled completely, they can be stored at room temperature in zipper-lock bag for 2 days. To serve, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Heat popovers on rimmed baking sheet until crisp and heated through, 5 to 8 minutes.
Making Popovers in a Muffin Tin:
If you don’t have a popover pan, you can bake the popovers in a nonstick 12-cup muffin tin—with a sacrifice in stature. To ensure even cooking, fill only the 10 outer cups to 1/4 inch from the top (you may have some batter left over). Reduce initial baking time in step 3 to 15 minutes, and reduce secondary baking time to 20 to 25 minutes after oven temperature has been lowered. Poke popovers as directed and continue to bake for another 10 minutes.